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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.